Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
